Samsung Dishwasher LC Code: 6 Causes & How to Fix (2026)

What the Samsung Dishwasher LC Code Means

Samsung dishwashers display the LC error code (sometimes shown as LE on older models) when the internal leak sensor is triggered. Inside the base of every Samsung dishwasher sits a small drip tray with a float switch — a sensor designed to detect water that has escaped the wash tub. When water accumulates in that tray, the float rises, trips the switch, and the machine stops to protect your floor and cabinetry from water damage.

The LC code is common on popular Samsung models including the DW80R9950US, DW80T5040US, DW80K5050UW, and DW80N3030US. The code itself is a safety mechanism, not a defect — but it points to a real leak somewhere in the system that needs attention.

Before pulling the dishwasher out, try a reset (see the section below). If the code clears and does not return, a minor splash or condensation may have tripped the float temporarily. If the code returns within one wash cycle, work through the six causes below.

Cause 1: Float Switch Stuck or Dirty DIY

Over time, detergent residue, food debris, and mineral deposits can cause the float switch in the base drip tray to stick in the raised (tripped) position, even when there is no active leak. The machine reads this as a permanent leak and keeps displaying LC.

How to check and fix:

• Turn off the dishwasher and disconnect power at the breaker.
• Remove the kick plate / toe panel at the bottom front of the machine (usually 2 screws).
• Locate the styrofoam float sitting in the drip tray — it should move freely up and down.
• If the float is stuck up, press it down gently. Clean away any debris or residue with a damp cloth.
• Use a turkey baster or towels to remove any standing water from the tray.
• Restore power and run a short cycle. If the LC code does not return, you are done.

This fix costs nothing and takes about 15 minutes. It resolves the LC code for roughly 30–40% of cases.

Cause 2: Faulty Door Gasket / Seal Maybe DIY

The rubber door gasket creates a watertight seal around the entire door perimeter. Over years of use, this gasket can crack, harden, warp, or pull away from its channel — allowing water to drip down the front of the door and collect in the base tray.

How to inspect:

• Run your fingers along the full length of the door gasket, feeling for cracks, tears, or sections that feel stiff and brittle.
• Look for wet or discoloured areas below the door front during a wash cycle (use a flashlight).
• Check that the gasket sits fully in its channel at all points — it can pop out of the groove at corners.

If the gasket has come out of its groove at a corner, you may be able to press it back in. A cracked or hardened gasket needs replacement. Replacement gaskets cost $30–$60 in parts. Installation requires removing the old gasket by pulling it out of the channel and pressing a new one in — manageable as a DIY job if you are comfortable with appliance work, but a technician can do it in about 30 minutes.

Cause 3: Loose Drain Hose Connection DIY

The drain hose runs from the dishwasher's drain pump to either a garbage disposal or a drain air gap under the sink. If the clamp at either end loosens — due to vibration over time — water can drip back toward the base of the machine and trip the LC sensor.

How to check:

• Pull the dishwasher out slightly (or access through the cabinet under the sink).
• Inspect both ends of the drain hose: where it connects to the pump at the bottom of the dishwasher, and where it connects to the disposal or drain fitting.
• Check that all clamps are tight and the hose has no kinks, cracks, or holes.
• Tighten any loose clamps with a screwdriver or replace them with new ones ($2–$5 each).

A cracked drain hose needs full replacement — hoses cost $15–$30 and take about 30 minutes to swap. This is a straightforward DIY repair.

Cause 4: Cracked Sump Assembly Pro

The sump assembly sits at the bottom of the dishwasher tub and houses the wash pump motor, filter, and drain pump. A hairline crack in the sump housing — caused by impact, thermal stress, or a foreign object (like a broken glass fragment) getting into the pump — will cause a steady slow leak directly into the drip tray.

Diagnosing a cracked sump requires pulling the dishwasher out and inspecting the underside. Look for water staining, mineral deposits, or obvious cracking around the plastic sump housing. A cracked sump is a professional repair — the sump assembly must be fully disassembled, the pump removed, and the housing replaced. On Samsung dishwashers this is a 2–3 hour job. Sump assembly parts run $80–$180; with labour the total repair typically falls in the $200–$350 range.

Cause 5: Faulty Water Inlet Valve Pro

The water inlet valve is a solenoid-operated valve that controls water entering the dishwasher. When the valve wears out, it may fail to close completely after the fill cycle — allowing a slow trickle of water to continue entering the tub. Over time this causes the tub to overfill, water spills over the sump seal, and the LC sensor trips.

Signs of a failing inlet valve include the dishwasher filling slowly, humming noises during filling, or water on the floor even when the machine is off. Replacing the inlet valve is a professional job — the machine must be pulled out, the water supply disconnected, and the valve swapped. Parts cost $40–$80; the full repair runs $150–$220 with labour.

Cause 6: Control Board False Reading Pro

In rare cases — particularly after a power surge or firmware glitch — the main control board can erroneously trigger the LC code even when the float switch is dry and there is no physical leak present. If you have checked all five causes above, performed a proper reset, and the code returns on a completely dry machine, a faulty control board is the likely culprit.

Control board replacement is always a professional repair. Technicians will confirm this diagnosis with a multimeter test of the float switch circuit before ordering a board. Samsung control boards for dishwashers typically cost $150–$250; with labour the repair runs $250–$400. On an older machine, it is worth getting a repair vs. replace assessment first.

How to Reset the Samsung Dishwasher LC Code

Follow these steps in order before assuming you need a repair:

1. Cancel the current cycle: Press and hold the Start/Cancel button for 3 seconds. The display will clear.
2. Turn off power: Open the door and flip the dishwasher's circuit breaker off for 60 seconds, then back on.
3. Dry the base tray: Remove the kick plate and soak up any standing water with towels or a turkey baster. Make sure the float switch moves freely.
4. Run a short test cycle: Close the door, select the shortest wash cycle, and watch for water on the floor or under the machine.
5. If LC returns immediately: The float switch or another component is still triggering the sensor. Work through the six causes above or call a technician.

Samsung Dishwasher LC Code — Repair Cost Breakdown

Prices reflect Toronto & GTA rates as of 2026. A $65 diagnostic fee applies; this is credited toward the repair cost if you proceed. $40 OFF any repair — limited time.

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