Quick Reference
- F21 / F9 E1 — Long drain (clean filter, check hose)
- F8 E1 / LF — Long fill (check water supply and pressure)
- F5 E2 — Door latch not engaging
- SUD / Sd — Too much detergent / excess suds
- LOC / LC — Control lock active (not an error)
- F0 E1 / F1 E1 — Control board error (professional service)
- Repair cost: $150–$350 | $89 diagnostic — waived with repair
Whirlpool is one of the most trusted washer brands in Canada, but even reliable machines display error codes when something goes wrong. Whirlpool uses two error code systems depending on model generation: older models use single F-codes (F1, F2, F3, etc.) while newer front-load and top-load models display combination codes like F5 E2 or F8 E1. This guide covers both systems with clear explanations and fixes.
Whirlpool Washer Error Codes — Full Table
The following table applies to Whirlpool front-load (Duet, WFW series) and top-load (Cabrio, WTW series) washers. Combination codes (F# E#) are used on models manufactured after approximately 2012.
| Error Code | Meaning | Common Cause | Fix | DIY? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| F0 / F0 E1 | Control board communication error | Main control board fault, wiring harness issue | Unplug 1 min; if code returns, board or wiring needs professional service | Pro |
| F1 / F1 E1 / F1 E2 | Control board failure | Main control board has failed | Control board replacement required | Pro |
| F2 / F2 E1 | Keypad / user interface error | Stuck button, failed user interface board | Check all buttons; if stuck, clean panel; UI board may need replacement | Inspect First |
| F3 / F3 E1 | Pressure sensor error | Faulty pressure switch or blocked pressure hose | Check pressure hose for blockage; pressure switch replacement may be needed | Pro |
| F3 E2 | Temperature sensor error | Faulty water temperature sensor (NTC thermistor) | Thermistor replacement required | Pro |
| F5 / F5 E1 | Door switch error | Door lid switch failed (top-load) | Inspect and replace door switch | Inspect First |
| F5 E2 | Door latch error (front-load) | Door not closing fully, broken door latch | Check for items in door seal; replace latch if broken | Inspect First |
| F5 E3 | Door unlock error | Door lock motor not releasing | Unplug 10 min to reset lock; if persistent, latch motor needs replacement | Pro |
| F6 / F6 E1 | Communication error | Motor control board to main board communication failure | Inspect wiring harness; replace motor control board if needed | Pro |
| F7 / F7 E1 | Motor speed sensing error | Tachometer (speed sensor) failure | Tachometer or motor replacement required | Pro |
| F8 / F8 E1 / LF | Long fill / no water | Taps closed, kinked hose, clogged inlet filter, low pressure | Open taps, clean inlet filters, check hoses | DIY |
| F8 E2 | Dispenser error | Detergent dispenser not moving correctly | Clean dispenser drawer; if actuator broken, professional replacement needed | Inspect First |
| F9 / F9 E1 / F21 | Long drain | Clogged pump filter, kinked drain hose, failed pump | Clean drain filter, straighten hose, check standpipe height | DIY |
| F28 | Serial communication error | Motor control board communication fault | Check wiring connections; board replacement may be needed | Pro |
| SUD / Sd | Excess suds | Too much or non-HE detergent used | Use HE detergent; reduce amount; run Rinse+Spin cycle | DIY |
| LOC / LC | Control lock active | Control Lock feature enabled (not an error) | Hold Control Lock button 3 seconds to deactivate | DIY |
| Int | Cycle interrupted | Lid opened during spin, power interruption | Close lid and restart cycle; informational code | DIY |
| uL | Unbalanced load (top-load) | Load too heavy on one side | Redistribute clothes; add items to balance heavy loads | DIY |
How to Fix the Most Common Whirlpool Washer Error Codes
F21 / F9 E1 — Long Drain Error
This is the most frequently reported Whirlpool washer error code. The machine tried to drain but could not empty the tub within 8 minutes.
- On front-load Whirlpool washers, locate the filter access door at the lower front of the machine. Place a towel and shallow container underneath before opening.
- Drain the small emergency hose into your container.
- Unscrew the filter cap (counterclockwise) and remove any debris — coins, lint, buttons, and hair ties are the most common culprits.
- Rinse the filter under running water and reinstall firmly.
- Check the main drain hose at the back for kinks or bends.
- Confirm the drain hose end is between 18 and 96 inches above the floor.
If the filter and hose are clear but the F21 code returns, the drain pump impeller may have a foreign object lodged in it, or the pump motor has failed — call a certified technician.
F8 E1 / LF — Long Fill Error
The washer could not fill with enough water within the allowed time.
- Confirm both hot and cold water supply taps are fully open (turn counterclockwise as far as they go).
- Straighten any kinked inlet hoses.
- Turn off the water supply, disconnect the inlet hoses from the back of the washer, and remove the small mesh screens from the ports. Clean with an old toothbrush under running water.
- Check that your home water pressure is at least 20 psi — Whirlpool's recommended minimum.
F5 E2 — Door Latch Error (Front-Load)
The washer cannot confirm the door is properly latched and locked. Before replacing the door latch:
- Check that no clothing is caught between the door and the gasket seal
- Inspect the rubber door gasket for tears or warping preventing a proper seal
- Open and close the door firmly — the latch should click audibly
If the door closes correctly but the code persists, the latch assembly or door strike needs to be replaced. This is typically a $100–$180 repair including parts.
SUD / Sd — Excess Suds
Whirlpool's suds detection system will pause the cycle and extend the rinse when it detects too much foam. This is most common when switching from a traditional washer to an HE front-loader without changing detergent type.
- Only ever use HE (High Efficiency) detergent in Whirlpool front-loaders
- Use 1–2 tablespoons maximum per load — the HE logo detergents are highly concentrated
- Run a Rinse+Spin cycle with no detergent to clear existing suds
- If SUD appears regularly, also check for fabric softener buildup in the dispenser drawer
LOC / LC — Control Lock
This is not a malfunction — it means the Control Lock feature has been activated (intentionally or accidentally). To deactivate, press and hold the Control Lock button for 3 seconds. On some models, it is a combination of two buttons held simultaneously. Refer to your model's manual if the standard 3-second hold does not work.
F1 E1 — Main Control Board Error
uL — Unbalanced Load (Top-Load Cabrio)
Whirlpool top-load Cabrio and Bravos washers use uL instead of UE. The fix is the same: redistribute the laundry evenly around the agitator or impeller plate. For large comforters, wash on the Bulky Items cycle which uses a different spin speed profile.
Older Whirlpool F-Code Models
Whirlpool washers manufactured before approximately 2012 — including older Duet and Cabrio models — use single F-codes without the E suffix. Here is a quick reference:
- F0 — No error / stored code cleared
- F1 — Control board failure
- F2 — Keypad stuck
- F3 — Thermistor open / short
- F5 — Door lid switch failure
- F6 — Motor control board error
- F7 — Motor speed sensor error
- F8 — Heater relay fault
- F9 — Drain error
- F21 — Long drain (same cause as F9 E1)
- F28 — Serial communication failure
When to Call a Certified Technician
Contact a professional technician when your Whirlpool washer shows:
- F0 E1, F1 E1, F1 E2 — control board failure
- F6 E1, F28 — communication or motor control board errors
- F7 E1 — motor speed sensor or motor failure
- F21 or F9 E1 — drain error that persists after cleaning filter and hose
- F5 E3 — door unlock motor failure
- Any code that returns immediately after a full reset
Frequently Asked Questions — Whirlpool Washer Error Codes
F21 means the washer took too long to drain. Clean the drain pump filter (on front-loaders), check the drain hose for kinks or clogs, and make sure the standpipe is at the correct height (18–96 inches). If the pump makes a humming noise but no water exits, a foreign object may be jammed in the pump impeller.
SUD (or Sd) means too many suds have been detected. Use only HE detergent and reduce the amount — typically 1–2 tablespoons per load. Run a Rinse+Spin cycle without detergent to flush the drum. The washer will pause the cycle and extend the rinse time automatically to work through the suds.
F5 E2 means the door is not latching properly. Check for clothing caught in the door seal, inspect the door latch assembly for damage or wear, and make sure the door is closing fully. If the latch mechanism is broken, it needs to be replaced — typically a $100–$180 repair.
F8 E1 (or LF — Long Fill) means the washer is taking too long to fill with water. Check that the water supply taps are fully open, inspect hoses for kinks, and clean the inlet filter screens. Also check your home water pressure — Whirlpool washers need at least 20 psi to fill correctly.
LOC (or LC) means Control Lock is active — the control panel buttons are locked to prevent accidental operation. To unlock, press and hold the Control Lock button for 3 seconds. This varies by model, so check your owner's manual for the exact method.
F9 E1 is a long drain error, similar to F21 — the washer took more than 8 minutes to drain. Clean the pump filter, check the drain hose, and verify the standpipe height. If the washer still will not drain after these checks, the drain pump needs to be tested and likely replaced.
Whirlpool washer repairs in the Greater Toronto Area typically cost $150–$350 depending on the part that needs replacing. Nick's Appliance Repair charges an $89 diagnostic fee that is waived when you proceed with the repair, plus $40 OFF any repair as a limited-time offer.