Whirlpool is one of the most widely used dryer brands in Canada, and most Whirlpool dryer problems follow predictable patterns with well-known fixes. Whether your Whirlpool dryer is not heating, not spinning, squeaking on every cycle, or showing a PF or AF error code, this guide covers every major problem — cause, fix, repair cost, and when to stop troubleshooting and call a certified technician.
Problem 1: Not Heating
Cause: A blown thermal fuse is the most common culprit (usually from a blocked exhaust vent). A failed heating element, a tripped cycling thermostat, or a circuit breaker issue (electric dryers need both breaker legs on) can also cause no heat.
Fix: First, verify both breaker legs are on. Then test the thermal fuse with a multimeter — it's a small rectangular component in the exhaust duct path. If no continuity, it needs replacement. Always clean the exhaust vent when replacing a thermal fuse or it will blow again.
Call a tech if: The thermal fuse is intact but there's no heat. The heating element or thermostat needs professional diagnosis and replacement. Cost: $120–$220 for heating element.
Problem 2: Not Spinning
Cause: A broken drum belt is the most common cause. The drum belt wraps around the drum and drives rotation via the motor. When it snaps, the drum stops moving but the motor continues to run — you hear humming but nothing turns. Less commonly, a seized idler pulley or worn drum rollers can also stop rotation.
Fix: Open the dryer door and try to spin the drum by hand. If it spins completely freely with no resistance, the drum belt has broken. This is a moderate-complexity repair requiring the dryer cabinet to be opened. Cost with labour: $100–$180.
Call a tech if: The drum is hard to turn or won't turn at all by hand. Seized rollers or a locked motor require professional diagnosis.
Problem 3: Taking Too Long to Dry
Cause: Clogged lint filter, blocked exhaust vent (the most common cause), a partially failed heating element (some coils burned out), or worn drum seals allowing heat to escape.
Fix: Start free: clean the lint filter, then go outside during a cycle and check exhaust airflow at the exterior vent — it should be strong and warm. If airflow is weak, clean the vent. If airflow is fine but clothes are still damp, the heating element needs testing.
Call a tech if: Airflow is clear but drying times remain excessive. A partial heating element failure needs a multimeter test to confirm. See our full guide on dryers taking too long.
Problem 4: Squeaking
Cause: Worn drum glides (plastic or felt pads that support the front of the drum) or a failing idler pulley are the two most common causes of Whirlpool dryer squeaking. The squeak intensifies with heat and load weight.
Fix: Whirlpool sells drum glide kits specific to each model. The idler pulley is a simple swap once the cabinet is open. Many technicians replace the drum belt, idler pulley, and drum glides together since the labour to access them is the same for all three parts.
Call a tech if: The squeak is metal-on-metal (harsh grinding quality), which suggests rear drum bearing failure rather than glides. Rear bearing replacement is more complex and costs $150–$300.
Problem 5: PF Error Code (Power Failure)
Cause: Power was interrupted during a cycle — a brief outage, a voltage dip, or a loose power cord connection.
Fix: Press Start/Pause to resume the interrupted cycle. If PF appears frequently, check the dryer's 240V outlet and power cord connections at the terminal block inside the dryer (unplug first). A loose terminal connection causes intermittent voltage drops that trigger PF.
Call a tech if: PF appears repeatedly with confirmed stable power. The control board may be misreading voltage and needs replacement. Cost: $180–$320.
Problem 6: AF Code (Restricted Airflow)
Cause: Whirlpool's newer dryers include a sensor that detects inadequate exhaust airflow. The AF code appears when the vent is blocked or significantly restricted.
Fix: Clean the lint filter immediately. Check the exhaust duct behind the dryer for kinks. Go outside and verify the exterior vent flap opens freely and airflow is strong. Use a dryer vent cleaning brush kit to clear the duct.
Call a tech if: The vent is clear but AF persists. The dryer's airflow sensor or control board may have failed. Also: AF that persists despite a clean vent sometimes indicates the dryer is not reaching operating temperature — a heating element issue.
| Problem | Part(s) | Typical Repair Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Not heating | Thermal fuse / heating element | $80–$220 |
| Not spinning | Drum belt | $100–$180 |
| Squeaking | Drum glides + idler pulley | $120–$220 |
| PF code | Terminal block / control board | $80–$320 |
| AF code / vent issues | Vent cleaning / sensor | $80–$200 |
| Rear bearing | Drum bearing | $150–$300 |
Frequently Asked Questions
When an appliance is not working in the Greater Toronto Area, the usual culprits are a worn part, a failed motor or pump, a faulty sensor or control board, or normal wear after years of use. Our technician pinpoints the exact cause during the $89 diagnostic and gives you a clear repair quote — most appliance repairs are finished the same day.
Yes. Nick's offers same-day appliance repair across the Greater Toronto Area and the wider GTA, Monday to Saturday 8am–8pm and Sunday 9am–6pm, with no travel surcharge.
As a rule of thumb, repair is worth it when the fix costs less than half the price of a comparable new appliance. Our technician gives you an honest recommendation during the diagnostic so you can decide with no pressure.
In most cases we can book your appliance repair the same day or the next day in the Greater Toronto Area, and the majority of repairs are completed in that single visit.