Maytag Washer Error Codes — Complete List & Fixes (2026)

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Quick Reference

  • F21 — Long drain error (clean pump filter first)
  • F20 / F9 E1 — No fill / water supply error
  • F5 E2 — Door lock error (latch or lock module)
  • SUD — Excess suds (switch to HE detergent)
  • LOC — Control Lock active (hold button 3 seconds)
  • Repair cost: $150–$350 | $89 diagnostic — waived with repair

Maytag washing machines are built to be dependable, but like all modern appliances they use error codes to communicate faults. Maytag uses a mix of F-codes (F1 through F9), combined F/E codes (like F5 E2), and word codes (SUD, LOC, Int, rL) depending on the model. This guide covers every Maytag washer error code, what causes it, and how to fix it — for both top-load and front-load models.

Maytag Washer Error Codes — Complete Table

The table below covers Maytag top-load washers (MVWB, MVWC, MVWX series) and front-load washers (MHW series). Note that Maytag shares its platform with Whirlpool — many codes are identical across both brands.

Error Code Meaning Common Cause Fix DIY?
F0 E1 Long drain — drum not emptying Blocked pump filter, kinked drain hose, pump failure Clean pump filter, check drain hose for kinks DIY
F0 E2 Unbalanced load Clothes bunched on one side Redistribute load evenly, restart spin DIY
F0 E3 Excessive suds Too much or non-HE detergent Switch to HE detergent; run Rinse+Spin with no detergent DIY
F3 E1 Pressure sensor fault Faulty water level pressure switch Professional pressure switch replacement required Pro
F3 E2 Inlet temperature sensor fault Faulty water temperature thermistor Professional thermistor replacement required Pro
F5 E1 Door lid switch fault (top-load) Lid switch broken, lid not closing fully Check lid closes properly; replace lid switch if broken Inspect First
F5 E2 Door lock error (front-load) Door latch broken, door lock module failed Check door seal and latch; replace lock module if faulty Inspect First
F6 E1 Communication fault (main board to motor) Wiring harness issue, control board failure Reset washer; professional diagnosis of control board required Pro
F7 E1 Motor speed sensing fault Hall sensor failure, motor issue Professional hall sensor or motor service required Pro
F8 E1 / F21 Long drain error Blocked pump filter, kinked hose, failed pump Clean pump filter; check and straighten drain hose DIY
F8 E2 Dispenser fault Detergent dispenser actuator failure Professional dispenser actuator service required Pro
F9 E1 / F20 No fill / long fill Taps closed, kinked hose, clogged inlet filter Open taps, straighten hose, clean inlet mesh filters DIY
SUD Excess suds detected Too much or non-HE detergent Use HE detergent only; run Rinse+Spin with no detergent DIY
LOC Control Lock active Child lock feature activated Hold Control Lock button 3 seconds to deactivate DIY
Int Cycle interrupted Lid opened during spin (top-load); power interruption Close lid firmly and restart the cycle DIY
rL / F34 Items detected in drum during Clean cycle Laundry left in drum when Clean Washer cycle started Remove all items from drum; restart Clean Washer cycle DIY
nF No fill (top-load) Water supply issue, inlet valve failure Check taps, hoses, and inlet filters; replace valve if needed Inspect First

How to Fix the Most Common Maytag Washer Error Codes

F21 / F8 E1 — Long Drain Error

The F21 code is the most common Maytag service call. It means the washer tried to drain but the water level did not drop within the time limit. In the majority of cases, the fix is to clean the drain pump filter — a task most homeowners can do themselves.

  1. On front-load Maytag washers, locate the small rectangular access door at the bottom front of the machine. Place a shallow container and towels underneath.
  2. Pull out the small drain hose from behind the access panel, remove its cap, and let water drain into the container. You may need to empty it several times.
  3. Unscrew the larger circular pump filter cap counter-clockwise and pull it out. Remove all lint, coins, buttons, hairpins, and debris.
  4. Rinse the filter thoroughly, reinsert it, and screw the cap closed firmly.
  5. Check the drain hose at the back of the washer for kinks or restrictions.

If the drum still has water after cleaning the filter, the drain pump impeller may be jammed or the pump motor has failed — a professional repair is needed.

F9 E1 / F20 — No Fill

The washer started a fill cycle but did not detect water entering the drum within the time limit.

  1. Verify both the hot and cold water supply taps behind the washer are open all the way.
  2. Check the inlet hoses for kinks or bends that restrict flow.
  3. Unscrew the hoses from the back of the washer and inspect the mesh inlet filters inside the valve ports. Pull them out with needle-nose pliers and rinse clean.
  4. Check that the home water pressure is adequate — Maytag washers require at least 20 psi to fill correctly.

F5 E2 — Door Lock Error

Maytag front-load washers cannot start or continue a cycle if the door lock is not engaged. F5 E2 means the control board is not receiving the lock confirmation signal from the door lock assembly.

SUD — Excess Suds

SUD is one of the most common codes on Maytag HE washers. Excess suds can prevent proper rinsing and can damage the pump over time.

LOC — Control Lock

LOC is not a fault — it means the control lock (child lock) feature has been activated, preventing cycle changes or cancellations.

Int — Cycle Interrupted

Int appears on top-load Maytag washers when the lid is opened during a spin cycle, or after a power interruption. Simply close the lid and press Start to resume the cycle. If the washer does not resume, select a new cycle and press Start.

Pro tip: Maytag and Whirlpool washers share the same error code system — if you have a Maytag Bravos, Centennial, or Maxima, the F-codes in this guide apply directly. For a power-cycle reset, unplug for 60 seconds then restart. For a factory reset on top-load models, turn the cycle selector three clicks right, one left, one right, one left, one right within 6 seconds — the lights will flash to confirm reset mode.

Maytag Top-Load vs Front-Load Error Codes

Maytag top-load washers (Bravos, Centennial) and front-load washers (Maxima) share most error codes but have some model-specific codes:

When to Call a Certified Technician

Call a certified appliance technician for your Maytag washer when:

Frequently Asked Questions — Maytag Washer Error Codes

When an appliance is not working in the Greater Toronto Area, the usual culprits are a worn part, a failed motor or pump, a faulty sensor or control board, or normal wear after years of use. Our technician pinpoints the exact cause during the $89 diagnostic and gives you a clear repair quote — most appliance repairs are finished the same day.

Yes. Nick's offers same-day appliance repair across the Greater Toronto Area and the wider GTA, Monday to Saturday 8am–8pm and Sunday 9am–6pm, with no travel surcharge.

As a rule of thumb, repair is worth it when the fix costs less than half the price of a comparable new appliance. Our technician gives you an honest recommendation during the diagnostic so you can decide with no pressure.

In most cases we can book your appliance repair the same day or the next day in the Greater Toronto Area, and the majority of repairs are completed in that single visit.

F21 on a Maytag front-load washer means a long drain error — the washer could not drain within the expected time. Clean the pump filter behind the small access door at the lower front of the machine, check the drain hose for kinks, and verify the drain hose standpipe is not too high. If the pump is running but the drum is not draining, the pump impeller may be blocked or the pump has failed.

SUD means the washer has detected excess suds in the drum. This is caused by using too much detergent or non-HE detergent. The washer will automatically try to rinse out the extra suds. Switch to HE detergent and use the measured amount — typically 1 to 2 tablespoons for a full load.

LOC means the Control Lock (child lock) feature is active. To deactivate it, press and hold the Control Lock button for 3 seconds. On some models, you may need to hold two buttons simultaneously — refer to your Maytag owner's manual for the exact unlock sequence.

F5 E2 indicates a door lock error on Maytag front-load washers — the door is not locking properly or the door lock switch has failed. Check that the door is fully closed and nothing is caught in the door seal. If the code persists, the door latch or door lock module needs professional replacement.

rL (or F34) means items were detected in the drum during a Clean Washer cycle. This cycle requires an empty drum. Remove all clothing and items from the tub, then restart the Clean Washer cycle with no laundry inside.

Unplug the washer from the wall outlet, wait 60 seconds, then plug it back in. Select a new wash cycle and press Start. This power-cycle reset clears most temporary electronic fault codes. If the same error returns, a component requires professional diagnosis.

Maytag washer repairs in the GTA typically cost $150–$350 depending on the fault and parts needed. Nick's Appliance Repair charges an $89 diagnostic fee waived when you proceed with the repair, plus $40 OFF any repair right now.

Related Resources

Maytag Washer Showing an Error Code?

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Appliance Repair in the Greater Toronto Area: Costs, Common Faults & What to Expect

Nick's Appliance Repair provides same-day appliance repair across the Greater Toronto Area. Most appliance repairs are completed in a single visit and typically cost $150–$350 plus an $89 diagnostic fee that is waived when you proceed with the repair. Every job is backed by a 90 days parts-and-labour warranty, and right now you get $40 off any repair. Call (437) 747-6737 for a certified technician — a trusted local appliance repair service rated 4.7 out of 5 across 194 reviews since 2019.

Key takeaways
  • Same-day appliance repair in the Greater Toronto Area, six days a week.
  • $89 diagnostic (waived with repair) and $40 off any repair.
  • Typical appliance repairs cost $150–$350 with a 90 days warranty.
  • Certified technicians, 194 reviews and a 4.7-star average, serving the GTA since 2019.
How much does appliance repair cost in the Greater Toronto Area?
Most appliance repairs in the Greater Toronto Area cost between $150 and $350, plus a flat $89 diagnostic fee that is waived when you book the repair. You always get a free, upfront quote before any work starts, and there is currently $40 off any repair.
What are the most common appliance problems we fix?
The faults we see most often are a fridge that won't cool, a washer that won't spin, a dryer that won't heat, a dishwasher that won't drain, or an oven that won't heat. These are usually caused by a worn part, a failed motor or pump, a faulty sensor or control board, or normal wear after years of use, all of which our certified technicians repair on-site.

Our appliance repair process in the Greater Toronto Area, step by step

  1. Call (437) 747-6737 or book online — we confirm a same-day or next-day slot in the Greater Toronto Area.
  2. A certified technician diagnoses your appliance for the flat $89 diagnostic fee.
  3. You receive a free, no-obligation, all-in repair quote before any work begins.
  4. We complete the repair — most in a single visit — backed by a 90 days parts-and-labour warranty.
“My LG fridge stopped cooling on a Friday evening. Nick's sent a technician the next morning, diagnosed the fault and fixed it within an hour. Fair price, professional service.”— Sarah M., verified Google review

Helpful resource: ENERGY STAR appliance guide (energystar.gov). See our recent work and customer results. Next step: book your appliance repair service — schedule online or call (437) 747-6737 for a free quote.