Quick Reference
- F21 — Long drain error (clean pump filter first)
- F20 / F9 E1 — No fill / water supply error
- F5 E2 — Door lock error (latch or lock module)
- SUD — Excess suds (switch to HE detergent)
- LOC — Control Lock active (hold button 3 seconds)
- Repair cost: $150–$350 | $89 diagnostic — waived with repair
Maytag washing machines are built to be dependable, but like all modern appliances they use error codes to communicate faults. Maytag uses a mix of F-codes (F1 through F9), combined F/E codes (like F5 E2), and word codes (SUD, LOC, Int, rL) depending on the model. This guide covers every Maytag washer error code, what causes it, and how to fix it — for both top-load and front-load models.
Maytag Washer Error Codes — Complete Table
The table below covers Maytag top-load washers (MVWB, MVWC, MVWX series) and front-load washers (MHW series). Note that Maytag shares its platform with Whirlpool — many codes are identical across both brands.
| Error Code | Meaning | Common Cause | Fix | DIY? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| F0 E1 | Long drain — drum not emptying | Blocked pump filter, kinked drain hose, pump failure | Clean pump filter, check drain hose for kinks | DIY |
| F0 E2 | Unbalanced load | Clothes bunched on one side | Redistribute load evenly, restart spin | DIY |
| F0 E3 | Excessive suds | Too much or non-HE detergent | Switch to HE detergent; run Rinse+Spin with no detergent | DIY |
| F3 E1 | Pressure sensor fault | Faulty water level pressure switch | Professional pressure switch replacement required | Pro |
| F3 E2 | Inlet temperature sensor fault | Faulty water temperature thermistor | Professional thermistor replacement required | Pro |
| F5 E1 | Door lid switch fault (top-load) | Lid switch broken, lid not closing fully | Check lid closes properly; replace lid switch if broken | Inspect First |
| F5 E2 | Door lock error (front-load) | Door latch broken, door lock module failed | Check door seal and latch; replace lock module if faulty | Inspect First |
| F6 E1 | Communication fault (main board to motor) | Wiring harness issue, control board failure | Reset washer; professional diagnosis of control board required | Pro |
| F7 E1 | Motor speed sensing fault | Hall sensor failure, motor issue | Professional hall sensor or motor service required | Pro |
| F8 E1 / F21 | Long drain error | Blocked pump filter, kinked hose, failed pump | Clean pump filter; check and straighten drain hose | DIY |
| F8 E2 | Dispenser fault | Detergent dispenser actuator failure | Professional dispenser actuator service required | Pro |
| F9 E1 / F20 | No fill / long fill | Taps closed, kinked hose, clogged inlet filter | Open taps, straighten hose, clean inlet mesh filters | DIY |
| SUD | Excess suds detected | Too much or non-HE detergent | Use HE detergent only; run Rinse+Spin with no detergent | DIY |
| LOC | Control Lock active | Child lock feature activated | Hold Control Lock button 3 seconds to deactivate | DIY |
| Int | Cycle interrupted | Lid opened during spin (top-load); power interruption | Close lid firmly and restart the cycle | DIY |
| rL / F34 | Items detected in drum during Clean cycle | Laundry left in drum when Clean Washer cycle started | Remove all items from drum; restart Clean Washer cycle | DIY |
| nF | No fill (top-load) | Water supply issue, inlet valve failure | Check taps, hoses, and inlet filters; replace valve if needed | Inspect First |
How to Fix the Most Common Maytag Washer Error Codes
F21 / F8 E1 — Long Drain Error
The F21 code is the most common Maytag service call. It means the washer tried to drain but the water level did not drop within the time limit. In the majority of cases, the fix is to clean the drain pump filter — a task most homeowners can do themselves.
- On front-load Maytag washers, locate the small rectangular access door at the bottom front of the machine. Place a shallow container and towels underneath.
- Pull out the small drain hose from behind the access panel, remove its cap, and let water drain into the container. You may need to empty it several times.
- Unscrew the larger circular pump filter cap counter-clockwise and pull it out. Remove all lint, coins, buttons, hairpins, and debris.
- Rinse the filter thoroughly, reinsert it, and screw the cap closed firmly.
- Check the drain hose at the back of the washer for kinks or restrictions.
If the drum still has water after cleaning the filter, the drain pump impeller may be jammed or the pump motor has failed — a professional repair is needed.
F9 E1 / F20 — No Fill
The washer started a fill cycle but did not detect water entering the drum within the time limit.
- Verify both the hot and cold water supply taps behind the washer are open all the way.
- Check the inlet hoses for kinks or bends that restrict flow.
- Unscrew the hoses from the back of the washer and inspect the mesh inlet filters inside the valve ports. Pull them out with needle-nose pliers and rinse clean.
- Check that the home water pressure is adequate — Maytag washers require at least 20 psi to fill correctly.
F5 E2 — Door Lock Error
Maytag front-load washers cannot start or continue a cycle if the door lock is not engaged. F5 E2 means the control board is not receiving the lock confirmation signal from the door lock assembly.
- Close the door firmly and try restarting the cycle. Listen for the click of the door latch engaging.
- Inspect the door seal (gasket) for debris or clothing that may prevent full closure.
- If the door closes properly but F5 E2 persists, the door lock module itself has failed. This is a professional repair.
SUD — Excess Suds
SUD is one of the most common codes on Maytag HE washers. Excess suds can prevent proper rinsing and can damage the pump over time.
- Always use detergent labeled HE (High Efficiency). Regular detergent produces up to 10 times more suds than HE formula.
- Use the correct amount — measuring matters. For most loads in the GTA, 1 to 2 tablespoons of HE liquid is sufficient. Powders vary — follow the package directions.
- If SUD appears, the washer will attempt to rinse itself automatically. Do not open the door until it completes this self-rinse phase.
- After the cycle ends, run a Rinse+Spin cycle with no detergent added to flush remaining suds.
LOC — Control Lock
LOC is not a fault — it means the control lock (child lock) feature has been activated, preventing cycle changes or cancellations.
- Press and hold the Control Lock button for 3 seconds. The lock indicator light should turn off.
- On some Maytag models, the unlock sequence is to hold the Delay Start or another designated button — check your model's owner's manual.
Int — Cycle Interrupted
Int appears on top-load Maytag washers when the lid is opened during a spin cycle, or after a power interruption. Simply close the lid and press Start to resume the cycle. If the washer does not resume, select a new cycle and press Start.
Maytag Top-Load vs Front-Load Error Codes
Maytag top-load washers (Bravos, Centennial) and front-load washers (Maxima) share most error codes but have some model-specific codes:
- Top-load specific: F5 E1 (lid switch), rL/F34 (items in drum during Clean cycle), Int (lid opened during spin), nF (no fill)
- Front-load specific: F5 E2 (door lock), F8 E2 (dispenser fault)
- Both types: F21/F8 E1 (drain), F9 E1/F20 (fill), SUD, LOC, F3 E1, F3 E2, F7 E1
When to Call a Certified Technician
Call a certified appliance technician for your Maytag washer when:
- The error code returns immediately after a power-cycle reset
- The drum is full of standing water and cleaning the pump filter did not resolve F21
- F3 E1 or F3 E2 appear — pressure switch and thermistor faults require professional diagnosis
- F6 E1 or F7 E1 appear — motor communication and speed sensing faults are not DIY repairs
- F5 E2 persists after confirming the door closes properly — door lock module replacement is needed
- F8 E2 dispenser fault appears — actuator replacement requires disassembly
Frequently Asked Questions — Maytag Washer Error Codes
F21 on a Maytag front-load washer means a long drain error — the washer could not drain within the expected time. Clean the pump filter behind the small access door at the lower front of the machine, check the drain hose for kinks, and verify the drain hose standpipe is not too high. If the pump is running but the drum is not draining, the pump impeller may be blocked or the pump has failed.
SUD means the washer has detected excess suds in the drum. This is caused by using too much detergent or non-HE detergent. The washer will automatically try to rinse out the extra suds. Switch to HE detergent and use the measured amount — typically 1 to 2 tablespoons for a full load.
LOC means the Control Lock (child lock) feature is active. To deactivate it, press and hold the Control Lock button for 3 seconds. On some models, you may need to hold two buttons simultaneously — refer to your Maytag owner's manual for the exact unlock sequence.
F5 E2 indicates a door lock error on Maytag front-load washers — the door is not locking properly or the door lock switch has failed. Check that the door is fully closed and nothing is caught in the door seal. If the code persists, the door latch or door lock module needs professional replacement.
rL (or F34) means items were detected in the drum during a Clean Washer cycle. This cycle requires an empty drum. Remove all clothing and items from the tub, then restart the Clean Washer cycle with no laundry inside.
Unplug the washer from the wall outlet, wait 60 seconds, then plug it back in. Select a new wash cycle and press Start. This power-cycle reset clears most temporary electronic fault codes. If the same error returns, a component requires professional diagnosis.
Maytag washer repairs in the GTA typically cost $150–$350 depending on the fault and parts needed. Nick's Appliance Repair charges an $89 diagnostic fee waived when you proceed with the repair, plus $40 OFF any repair right now.